What’s included in our service.

Engine & Fluids
Oil and Filter Change: We drain the old engine oil and replace it with new oil, along with a new oil filter.
Spark Plugs: We inspect and replace spark plugs to ensure proper ignition. (If the plugs need to be replaced, an extra fee will be incurred.)
Fluid Check: We check and top up the engine coolant and, if applicable, brake/reverse mechanisms.
Test Run: We warm up the engine to check for proper idling, performance, and any warning lights.
Drive & Jet Pump System
Impeller and Wear Ring Inspection: We check the jet pump, impeller, and wear ring for cavitation damage, chips, or debris.
Driveline Alignment & Greasing: We lubricate the driveshaft, bearing seals, and all necessary moving parts.
Electrical & Diagnostics
Computer Diagnostics (ECU): We plug the ski into diagnostic software to check for any fault codes, clear previous errors, and perform software updates.
Battery Check: We perform a load test on the battery and check the charging system.
Bilge & Wiring: We inspect the bilge pump operation and ensure the wiring harnesses are secure and free of corrosion.
General Inspection
Visual Safety Check: We inspect the engine mounts, hoses, clamps, and exhaust components for leaks or wear.
Steering and Cable Lubrication: We ensure that the steering, throttle, and reverse cables move freely and are properly lubricated.
Wash Down: We perform a general cleaning and wash-out of the hull to remove salt and debris.
Yamaha Versus Sea-Doo servicing
Yamaha and Sea-Doo manufacture highly reliable jetski craft, their differ significantly with their engineering philosophies. This means that they require entirely different approaches to maintenance and servicing. Yamaha leans heavily on tried-and-true, simpler mechanical designs, while Sea-Doo pushes innovative, automotive-style technology that requires specific care.









Here is a breakdown on how the servicing and maintenance differs across the core components of both manufacturers.
Brief comparative analysis
| Component | Yamaha WaveRunner | Sea-Doo |
| Cooling System | Open-loop (pumps raw water through engine) | Closed-loop (internal coolant and heat exchanger) |
| Flushing Limit | 3 to 5 minutes | Strictly 90 to 120 seconds maximum |
| Driveshaft Seal | Traditional rubber seal (virtually maintenance-free) | Carbon seal (requires monitoring and periodic replacement) |
| Jet Pump Wear Ring | Metal/Stainless (highly durable, pricier to fix) | Plastic (sacrificial, cheap to replace) |
| Engine Access | Generally open and straightforward | Often requires removing more body paneling |
1. Cooling Systems: Open vs. Closed Loop
The key point of difference between the two brands is their engine cooling system
- Yamaha (Open-Loop): Yamaha simply pumps the water you are riding in directly through the engine block to cool it, then shooting it out the exhaust. This proven simple system strongest point is that it has fewer parts to fail. However, when you ride in saltwater, you are pumping corrosive water directly through the engine. This makes thorough post-ride flushing non negotiable otherwise your engine will suffer from internal corrosion.
- Sea-Doo (Closed-Loop): On the other hand, Sea-Doo uses an automotive-style closed-loop cooling system. The engine block is filled with antifreeze/coolant, and the heat is dissipated through a metal heat exchanger built into the bottom of the ski (the ride plate). While this has the advantage of safeguarding against saltwater touching the inside of the engine block, it adds an extra maintenance step, as you must regularly check, test, and replace the engine coolant
2. The Post-Ride Flush
These cooling differences, mean that you have to treat the post ride flushing process differently.
- You can safely hook a Yamaha up to a garden hose with the engine running out of the water for 3 to 5 minutes. This shou;d allow sufficient time to thoroughly flush out all the salt, sand, and any other rubbish.
- On the other hand. Sea-Doo: flushing time is limited to 90 seconds to 2 minutes. The closed-loop system is reliant upon the ski sitting in water to cool the heat exchanger. If you run a Sea-Doo out of the water it will overheat rapidly.
3. Driveline Seals
Water has to be kept out where the driveshaft leaves the hull to join the jet pump
- Yamaha use a traditional rubber seal and bearing setup, keeping it out-of-sight. This needs minimal maintenance over the life of the ski.
- Sea-Doo use a floating metal and carbon ring known as a carbon seal. This seal serves to use the water underneath the ski for lubrication and cooling. Running the ski out of the water for too long on a hose can cause the seal to degrade as it overheats. Similarly, if the engine mounts shift slightly out of alignment over time, the carbon seal will overheat, degrade, and let water into the hull. A lot of Sea-Doo owners undertake preventive maintenance and replace the carbon seal every few years.
4. Supercharger Maintenance (High-Performance Models)
If you choose the fastest, supercharged models (over 200+ horsepower), you will need to budget for supercharger servicing.
- Yamaha (SVHO): Yamaha superchargers use a sprag clutch and a rubber dampener to absorb shock. They do not have a mandatory “rebuild interval,” but the clutches do wear out over time with hard riding. Fortunately, if a Yamaha clutch fails, the supercharger simply stops building boost; meaning that catastrophic engine damage is very unlikely
- Sea-Doo (Older 215/255/260 Models): Older Sea-Doo superchargers strictly require a full rebuild every 100 to 200 hours. If you choose to ignore this service requirement, the internal washers will shatter, sending metal shrapnel directly into the engine, resulting in thousands of dollars in damage. (Note: If you buy a newer 300 HP or 325 HP Sea-Doo made after 2016, they feature a redesigned, maintenance-free supercharger that does not require the 100-hour rebuild.)
5. Jet Pump Wear Rings
The wear ring sits tightly around the impeller to maximize thrust. If you suck up a rock or a stick, it will hit this ring.
- Yamaha use a durable metal housing which is extremely hard to break. However. if you’re unlucky enough to heavily score or damage it with debris, the repair will be detailed and expensive.
- Sea-Doo use a plastic, sacrificial wear ring. It has been designed to take the brunt of the damage if you suck up debris to protect the more expensive impeller. They have been designed to be sacrificial and as such break more frequently than Yamaha’s metal rings, but they are very cheap and easy to replace